Saturday, September 17, 2011

European Excursion - Photo Montage Part IV: Krakow

Overnight train from Praha to Krakow
9+ hours journey in a 2-person sleeper car.
Katie got the top bunk.

Looking hopeful for a night of some sleep.
Unfortunately, it became a night
of no sleep for me


At first glance it reads like "24 hour A-Hole"... 
For all you Fashionistas out there... 
Pimiento, the fancy Argentinian Grill
where we enjoyed a delicious lunch

I never met a caper I didn't like, especially
these huge, delicious ones with a stem.
Tried looking for them to no avail.  :-(

The ice-cream shops put Baskin Robbins
to complete shame

Click Clop Click Clop Click Clop...

The fabulous Rynek Główny Market Square, smacked right in the middle of Old Town Krakow.
Rynek Glowny is the largest city square in Europe, measured 200m X 200m.
Majestic buildings dot the Square.  Old Town is enriched by
the Planty, a narrow parkland that was once the moat.  

Looking down from the Mariacka Steeple.
The tower is the Town Hall Tower.


Another view of the Twin Steeples 
Gothic towers of St. Mary's Basilica,
landmark of the Rynek Glowny.
The Basilica boasts stained glass windows by Stanislaw,
Wyspianski, and Josef Mehoffer;
the gilded wooden alterpiece was carved by Wit Stwosz. 

The taller of the Twin Mariacka Steeples stands 80 meters (262 ft) tall.
The Trumpeter of Krakow plays a melody
(called the Hejnal mariacki) from this steeple
every hour on the hour.
It is played four times once in each direction, for 24 hours.
 
239 steps to the high tower

A team of 7 trumpeters is responsible
for playing the hejnal
around the clock

The hejnal is a simple 5-note melody.
 It was likely a signal of the opening and closing of the city gates.  The tune ends oddly and abruptly but nobody knows why.  Legend had it that the bugler played the hejnal to warn of an attack from the marauding Mongols back in the 13th Century.  As the bugler sounded the alarm, he was shot by an arrow;
thus his warning cut short. 

Our trumpeter playing the tune at 2 o'clock.
He first struck the bell at the tower before
playing the hejnal.
 


Katie climbing the stairs up the tower
Not exactly a safe place to visit...

City Hostel, a clean and inexpensive
hostel to rest our heads for three nights
while in Krakow.
Highly recommended. 

It's not fancy, but got everything we needed.
Clean beds, linen, towels, clean shared bathroom
(but we ended up being the only ones using it so
it is a private bath)... 
...and FREE WiFi all the way
in our room!
We would typically purchase fresh fruit
and breakfast items from the local markets.
As seen on TV...musli, organic soy milk, bread,
fruit, etc.  Please notice the Starbucks
VIA Ready Brew in the corner...
It kept me sane for two weeks. 

City Hostel also provides a generous breakfast buffet every morning.
A typical spread of breakfast includes
cereal with milk, various kinds of deli meat, cheeses,
bread, butter and preserves, sliced fresh tomatoes and
cucumbers, and coffee and tea.  

The common area is open 24/7 with a television
and WiFi access. There is drinking water,
hot water, a refrigerator, and a sink.

A washing machine is available for guests'
laundry.  Supply your own detergent.
We took advantage of this service
and washed our one-week worth
of dirty laundry.  

Chimera salad bar inspired by the milk bar (bar mleczny) concept
(but not the Australian Milk Bar).  It's a Polish form
of no frills eatery/cafeteria.  The original Milk Bar was subsidized
by the state during the communist era to provide simple
and wholesome meals to the poor.  The large part of the
menu was based on dairy, hence, Milk Bar.  
 
This was a small plate - select four items
from the salad bar.  Costs 12 pln (about $4) for
a portion enough for us to share.

Pierogi filled with peaches and berries.
20 pln for ten pierogies.  Tasted OK, but
not great.

Katie just had to reign in the cheetah... 
Attended a concert at the St. Something Church;
its name escaped me...

Performed by the Krakow Chamber Music.
The caliber was passible, but not stellar.
Frankly, it is what you would expect for a
$20 concert aimed for tourists

Night scene at Krakow

Street performers playing with
fire at Rynek Glowny!
The magnificent Wawel Royal Castle

Back of the Wawel Castle

My tourist shot at the Castle..

Katie and the Wawel Dragon
a famous dragon in Polish folklore

A farmers market in Krakow Kazimierz
(Jewish Quarter)
 
The New Jewish Cemetery
Established in 1880 and destroyed during WWII.
Tidied up in 1957. A resting place of recognized
members of the Jewish community.
Monument to the victims of the Holocaust.



Traditional Polish food at Polskie Smaki, near Old Town.
Pork cutlet, stuffed cabbage, salad, and
apple pancakes.
Watching the sunrise from the bedroom window
of the hostel. The trumpeter sounding
its melody from afar.
My friend Kevin's recommendation:  Lunch at
U Pani Stasi, so we had to try.

I had zupa rosół (beef broth with noodles), Katie had cauliflower soup. 

These are the tastiest pierogi z mięsem
(pierogi with meat).  
We also had a small beet salad.  
The total damage?  
All under 21 PLN - that's about $7 for two people! 


Dziękuję, Kevin! (read Je

n-KOO-yee)
Thank you!


Looks self-explanatory to me

Krakow main train station, buying
train tickets back to Prague
Also looks self-explanatory to me...



European Excursion - Photo Montage Part III: Český Krumlov


Orientation: 
(Click on the map to enlarge)
Find Prague in the middle of the map - 
we are heading south
about 140 km (90 miles) to 
Český Krumlov (CHESS-key KROOM-lov).
Český Krumlov nearly borders Austria, making it easy for my favorite joke
that "I can see Austria from Krumlov's backyard!" 

Getting to Krumlov from Prague is easier by bus than by train, 
although most buses require a transfer at České Budějovice (Budweis),
which is famous for its brew.  
Do not confuse beer brewed in Budweis
with the American lager Budweiser by Anheuser-Busch,
which was o
riginally brewed as an imitation of the famous Bohemian original.
Český Krumlov (or simply Krumlov) is about an hour more bus ride from Budejovice, making it a 3.5+ hours bus ride from Prague.
Not exactly a "day trip", but I hope you will agree with me, from the photos,
that it is a place well worth a visit.  


Please enjoy the scenery of 
Český Krumlov.



View of the Castle from below
Český Krumlov, meaning roughly "Czech Bend in the River",
can be called Krumlov for short.  It is a small town in the
South Bohemian region.  Best known for its fine architecture, old town,
and the Castle.  
Český Krumlovis a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The most picturesque view I have seen.
Like a postcard, 
Český Krumlov boasts
a blue bird sky, rolling green hills,
and cobblestones cityscape

The Castle comes complete
with a bear pit!


View through a window from the castle
The Vltava River meanders through the castle,
providing a natural moat and a choice spot
for the Celtic tribes

A nice spot for lunch, overlooking the river

My Rick Steve's Guidebook has not steered me wrong
even once so far, so we followed his recommendation
and went to the local hangout Na Louzi for dinner.  

HELLO, DELICIOUSNESS!!


Inexpensive, tasty Czech cuisine and
hometown Eggenberg beer on tap.
Featured:  Smoked pork with dumplings,
grilled sausage, mixed salad, and potato omletes.
And of course, local Eggenberg beer to wash it all down!

I love my pivo!

Beautiful evening with
the cobblestones cityscape


Outside the patio of Hostel Merlin,
where we stayed for couple nights.  

Yes, these look out to the river

Life slows down by many beats when you have
coffee on the patio, especially THIS patio


Power breakfast before our long hike:
High protein bar, a banana, VIA coffee,
and the bread was just a leftover from something...

Follow the green trail to Klet Observatory
Fruit trees, oak trees, and many
others lined the trail.  The roundtrip is
about 15 km. 

Sign reads "Cesky Krumlov Ends Here" 
The trail turned from paved to unpaved.
Sunny but cool day for a perfect hike.

This is a beautiful picture of our hike!

Almost there!  0.5km to Klet.

Klet Observatory 
The observatory is closed for the summer,
but the gondola would be open
for visitors when the observatory reopens
in November

Pictorial illustration of sceneries.
Facing Cesky Krumlov straight ahead, and
Austria beyond the mountains

Please indulge me...
"I can see Austria all the way from Cesky Krumlov's backyard!!!"
(Tsk...Tsk..!!  Thank you.)


Back to Na Louzi for dinner for
the second night.
Don't mess with success!
Gourmet du jour:
Roast duck with potato dumplings AND (regular) dumplings,
Chicken a la Lady Somebody whose name I forgot
And of course, Eggenberg!

Crêpes should be a food group on its own
according to my niece Katie!

Crêpe of the hour:
Cinnamon and rum raisins

You gonna eat the whole thang?

You can't possibly just have ONE crêpe...
so we went back for breakfast the next day

Man does not live by bread alone...
he also needs crêpes (with various fillings)!!

This is the BEST EVER Americano with the sweetest crema.
Add your own hot water to taste.