Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Hong Kong: Chapter 5 - "(ex)Governor Patten versus Tsui Wah"

Left:  Tai Cheong's tart, otherwise known as ex-Governor's fav
Right:  Tsui Wah's tart, otherwise known as Leung family's fav

I know what you're asking.  "Who's (ex)governor Patten?"  Well, he was the British dude who went buh-bye as the governor of Hong Kong on June 30, 1997, when Hong Kong returned to PRC on July 1, 1997.  

Then who's Tsui Wah?  Tsui Wah is not a who; it is a what.  It's a restaurant that boasts delectable Hong Kong style bread and baked goods, among other items. Locals flock to its branches during lunch hours.  Being a "local" that I claim to be, I, too, visited Tsui Wah at lunch during my first week in Hong Kong, and visited frequently for breakfast and afternoon tea.  I stood in line, ordered quickly, accurately, and refrained from asking dumb questions such as "what is in a custard bun?"  I graduated from "Clueless Tourist" to "Local Tourist" status rather effortlessly.

So what does (ex)Governor Patten have anything to do with Tsui Wah?  Well, he doesn't.  However, Sir Patten apparently made it known that he loved egg tarts from a bakery called Tai Cheong, Tsui Wah's competitor.  One thing led to another, Tai Cheong's popularity soared and it opened new shops one after another, thanks to its egg tarts.  I likened that effect to a product having appeared on a daytime talkshow episode such as "Oprah's Favorite Things". 

Tai Cheong Bakery
Sir Patten's favorite
Tsui Wah Restaurant
Having uncovered this story 
from my family, naturally 
my next step is an 
Egg Tart Taste Test:  
"Tai Cheong vs. Tsui Wah.








I announced my project to my mom, who gladly supported and assisted my ambition. I  showed up around 3 o'clock, the customary time egg tarts rear their heads from the oven and enter little pastry bags or boxes for customers, in time for afternoon tea.  The sweet, vanilla-y fresh aroma at the bakeries was incredible.  If only I could bottle it.  Customers were buying four at a time; or half a dozen; or a dozen. And they would say, "four tarts", sans the word "egg".  It's understood - you wouldn't buy other tarts when egg tarts come out of the oven, I guess.  I listened and followed smartly, "one tart, please"...  How embarrassing.  The shopkeeper muttered, "ONE tart?"  "Yes, m'mam, and thank you."  I paid the five bucks (about US 70 cents) obediently and politely, exiting and rushing home to sink my teeth into the soft, velvety custard and the flaky crusts before they steamed up.

"Tai Cheong versus Tsui Wah," I proudly announced to my dad, who then of course repeated the associated history and testimony which mom already educated me.  I listened mindlessly while fumbling around for couple plates and my camera.  "Hurry before they cool down..." 

Authentic, traditional egg tarts should have a laminated crust that is dry and flaky. Neither soggy nor greasy.  The custard should be soft but not runny; never hard or gelatinous.  It should taste creamy and sweet with vanilla.

As I sank my teeth in the tarts, I regretted not buying at least a dozen or two from each bakery.  I could have tarts for dinner - they have plenty of protein.  This must have been one of the best taste tests I created for myself.  

Tsui Wah vs. ex-Governor Patten...  

Tsui Wah's crust was dry and flaky - just what I would associate with good egg tarts.  The crust did not taste buttery - butter was not undesirable, of course, but it is not a traditional or authentic egg tart taste.  Similar to making a pie crust, I imagine an important ingredient to achieve the flakiness was either shortening or lard, a customary ingredient in the old days, but I cannot be sure.   The custard was smooth and velvety.  Deliciously vanilla, but not excessively sweet.  

I cleansed my palate with some strong tea.  Next up, Sir Patten's favorite. 

I tasted what resembled a fine shortbread crumb crust.  Nice and buttery.   The crust crumbled slightly as I bit into it.  The crumbs mixed nicely with the custard, with a taste of of fresh eggs and milk.  The custard was also slightly sweeter than the other contender, so it complemented the buttery crust nicely. 

In the end, I have to agree with ex-Govenor Sir Patten that Tai Cheong has a damn good egg tart.  It suited my taste because I happened to believe butter makes everything tastes better.  I don't know whether what I ate was made with real butter.  Not surprisingly, my sister, brother, and my parents all prefer Tsui Wah - they all have a more authentic palate than I do.  

Well, perhaps I will go back to Tai Cheong before I leave and take a photo with the newspaper clip of the ex-governor singing its egg tarts praises.  I suppose I have the same good taste with Sir Patten when it comes to tarts.   

Good job, Daisy, you're doing great. 







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